During this restoration I have had to restore several components and come across several challenges along the way. This page details some of these, including the tools I have used.
Harden Hubs
Harden hubs were made using a single piece casting and were one of the first cycle hubs to have cassette bearings. The hubs I have (both a front and fixed rear) are the rarer “Bacon Slicer” type.
As a company Harden were typical of a company trying to diversify after World War II.
During the War they produced light weight components for aircraft but after the War were looking at other markets, of which the light weight cycle components was one. They continued manufacturing until 1954.
When I installed the Harden front there was excessive wobble which required the replacement of the bearings in the hub.
This is a straight forward procedure. The grease nipple in the central part of the axle has to be removed along with the dust covers and then the hub heated up using boiling water. The bearings should drop out fairly easily with a gentle tap with a plastic or wooden mallet.
Replacement is a straight forward reversal procedure. The bearing I used are KLNJ 3/8 Y
Wheel with bearings removed
Harden “Bacon Slicer” showing the pat pending and Harden logo. These were early as they predate the patent which was obtained in 1948
Finished job with the gorgeous alloy Harden wing nuts.
Celluloid Mudguards
The mudguards used on the RRA were Bluemel Noweights.
These are hard to find in any condition but I managed to find a rather dirty pair on ebay for £45.00.
These were missing rivets for the bridges and many had been repaired along the way with non standard variants..
I drilled out all the rivets holding the bridges, cleaned them and then had them re-chromed.
I riveted them using a hand press that I had already, which I bought for repairing cringles on the sails of my boat (see www.inspiration19.com).
The results look most professional!
Riveter. These may be purchased for about £45.00 from ebay. I had one which I use for repairing cringles in the sails of my boat.
Bridge in preparation for riveting
The finished job (top)
The finished job (bottom)
Sturmey Archer FC Hub
Below I have included an image which details the adjustment of this hub (click for a larger image). The ASC 3 speed fixed hub I have is adjusted in the same way.
Adjustment instructions for Sturmey Archer FC hub
One of the biggest problems I had was making the wire for the SA hub operation as most of the cables were either too long or too short.
I obtained a 78” wire and carefully cut it to length.
I made 2 ferrules for either end of the cable using brass modelling tube which I bought from ebay with the correct id (I think 1.2mm) and soldered these on. I wanted to make these correct rather than using the more common SA cable adjuster as this was not correct to the period. The Hubs I have have the quick release SA toggle which is also rare.
The FC hub I have is dated June 1951 as I did not have this originally and had to obtain one. I managed to get a NOS (New Old Stock) one. These are hard enough to get, let alone one of the exact date!
Cotter Press and Bottom Bracket cup removal tool
Two tools that I purchased which were extremely useful are the cotter press from http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/ and the bottom bracket removal tool.
Cotter Press
Fixed bracket removal tool
Fixed cup removal tool
The cotter press is most useful as this enables extraction/pressing of the crank cotters in place without damaging them by hammering etc. This I have done in the dim and distant past with other older cycles I have owned!